![]() ![]() )? I am guessing from the wood that it is a stained beech stock which means depending on the repair needed, you may have to refinish around the repair. Is the barrel free floated and do you have any kind of indication about how accurate it was pre repair (groups etc. Since this is a satin finished stock you may have to experiment with the grits to blend in the repair in the most unobtrusive way. And last, but of much importance - always use water while sanding polymer finishes (varnish). If you put too much glue, first level it with coarser grits - like 1000 grit sandpaper backed by a piece of thick leather, or the coarser side of a nail polishing file (block). Use it sparingly! For blending in the repair you can polish it with a fine nail polishing file. On the outside use the same CA glue to fill the scratches - you can use a needle for applicator. If you don't feel confident with that just put the glue on the crack - it will work it's way in. Fill the gap from the inside, while trying to expand it (gently!) with a thin knife blade, or something similar. Since this is a non load bearing part of the stock, a thin, low viscosity CA glue (like Loctite 401) will do the work. ![]() is nothing to worry about, this is a minor damage and it's easily repairable. Acraglas is a wonderful product and if your stock damage was open/straight enough, you could work it into the crack with thread or dental floss - doesn't look like an option for you. Remove any "wedge" and clamp immediately with soft jaw clamps. If you can spread the crack as Chuck suggested, again, more's the better. Before you use that method, and since the crack goes clean thru into the barrel channel, when you get your super glue, measure the tapered nozzle, select a drill bit that will allow a tight seal on the nozzle and drill a couple of shallow holes, (deep enought to reach the crack), from inside the channel into the major area of the crack, then, again, from the barrel channel, press the nozzle of the the super glue tightly into the drilled holes and squeeze the bottle, forcing glue to spread into the crack - if a little runs out the outside of the crack, more's the better. If you select a glue with a high flow rate, capillary action alone will draw "some" glue into the crack. Peter's method provides a good final finish and should be used for final finish. I've sold that rifle few years ago and the crack never reappeared, even thought that rifle had more than 3500 full loads 500gr/2680-2720fps. 460 Weatherby Mk5 in 1982 when the stock splited after about 60 rounds. I used exactly the above mentioned technique on my very first rifle a. A professional quality job's done in a mater of few minutes.Īir or an Aceton is not needed. It will finnish the stock like you've never seen before. As it has the same wood filling you won't even recognised it was ever there. Don't be scared to rub/sand with sandpaper. Blow over it with your mouth and repeate several times until the crack is fully filled and finnish. By one or two tube (2ml) of the cheapest Chinese made Super glue with a nozzle, the runnier the better (Cyoanoacrylate) and one or two sheets of 400- 600 grit sandpaper.Ĭut/tear the sandpaper into 35x35mm pieces.Īpply a very tiny amount of the Super glue with the tiny nozzle as deep as possible and immediately sand over the stock crack to create a fine sawdust to stick into the Super glue. ![]()
0 Comments
Leave a Reply. |
Details
AuthorWrite something about yourself. No need to be fancy, just an overview. ArchivesCategories |